Shoreline Management



 

Survey and Monitoring -
Waves

When designing coastal defence schemes or predicting the future evolution of the coastline it is important to have an understanding of the wave climate relevant to that area as it is one of the major influences on the development of the coast. This does not mean that we need to monitor the waves in all areas though, as computer modelling can be used to predict waves based upon a knowledge of the local area and some wave data with which to calibrate and check the model. When we say 'some wave data' that may relate to the geographical area over which data is gathered or the time period over which it is gathered.