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Survey and Monitoring - Waves
When designing coastal defence schemes or predicting the future evolution of the
coastline it is important to have an understanding of the wave climate relevant to that
area as it is one of the major influences on the development of the coast. This does not mean that we need
to monitor the waves in all areas though, as computer modelling can be used to predict
waves based upon a knowledge of the local area and some wave data with which to calibrate and check the model.
When we say 'some wave data' that may relate to the geographical area over which data is gathered
or the time period over which it is gathered.
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